As usual we do at this point in July, we begin to take stock of the results of the new 2023 vintage, to be released soon, as well as the stage and evolution of our Etna Rosso wines as we’re going to a transition from the 2020 to the new 2021 vintage.
Let’s review a few scenarios of the two harvesting first before to share the reflections and impressions from their tasting and predominant characteristics then.
The 2023 vintage is generally considered tough for both Central and Southern Italy, particularly due to downy mildew. It has certainly been challenging with hail, drought and rainfall affecting even the northern parts of the country too.
Within the Etna environment, specifically on the volcano, there has been a decrease of about 40% compared to the average production of recent years. Same scenario affected the northern slopes of Etna, although it represents a kind of most vocated “island” due to its privileged micro-climatic conditions at high altitudes.
At Massimo Lentsch, our “flagship” white grape Carricante, confirms a 40% of loss (average among the organic approach manures) and has experienced a postponement of 15-20 days in ripening compared to previous years. However, that is providing a promising positive picture. Despite seasonal challenges already described, the Etna Bianco DOC 2023 shows a beautiful verticality, pronounced freshness and good sapidity—characteristics that demonstrate a solid performance in terms of quality and organoleptic characters, with intense and immediate aromas on the nose.
This allows us to highlight how the entire team has made available all the necessary expertise to interpret and, in some aspects, enhance the peculiarities of a vintage that defies conventional patterns!
The 2021 harvesting on Etna experienced frost in March with a spring and summer of significant water stress tested into the vineyards caused by drought but also mitigated by the cool breezes from the northern slope. In early autumn, rains helped the vines regain a regular course, and the grapes ripened early thanks to mild temperatures and significant difference in temperature between day and night.
The careful and constant measurement of the sugar levels in the grapes, as well as a wisely anticipated harvest, allowed us to preserve the freshness of our Etna Rosso and prevent excessive alcohol content. Both acidity and PH were found correct in a balance with excellent phenolic and aromatic ripeness.
The Etna Rosso DOC 2021, both from our territorial label and approachable version as well as those as per its maximum expression of Contrada Feudo di Mezzo (exclusively pre-phylloxera vines), are characterized by great body and structure. Despite the greater intensity of flavor, both display a pleasant finesse in their aromas, without excessive fruitiness typical of a warmer vintage.
In conclusion, we were gathering results that fully satisfy our idea of Etna for both profile and expression, a recognizable style also thanks to a careful management of ageing in wood barrels, now 25 HL tonneaux at most.
Overall, these insights give us hope for future wines and vintages in a context that is increasingly proved by the climatic challenges of the near future!
